This personal account describing a visit to Elephant Haven was written by Phyl Kirkland in 2005. Today, Ms. Kirkland is a Trustee of Elephant Nature Foundation UK.

Please note that this account includes a description of riding atop an elephant. Limited opportunities were once offered to ride atop the Park's elephants (with great care taken to ensure it caused no discomfort to the eles themselves), but this is no longer the case. Visitors and volunteers no longer ride atop the elephants at any time.

From time to time you will come across a reference to Elephant Haven or even Elephant Heaven. This refers to Government owned land that Lek rents. It was the only land she had for her elephants before a kind American benefactor bought her the land in the valley that is now called Elephant Nature Park.

Nowadays the elephants that are fit enough to make the (approximately) three hour journey wander up there every ten to fourteen days, stay overnight and amble back to the Park the next day.

If, as a volunteer, you are lucky enough to go on this trip I guarantee it will be an experience you will never forget. It is fun: serious big-time fun. This is an account of my last trip.

The elephants set off from Elephant Nature Park about 2pm and walked along the road for about an hour until they came to the river crossing. Volunteers who are going to experience the joys of a jungle camp walk along with the elephants unless, like me, they are too decrepit to do so. (Due to various physical frailties walking long distances, especially uphill, isn't really a very sensible option.) In that case you set off an hour later in the pick-up truck along with the food, water, sleeping bags and everything else that you will need.

At the river the elephants enjoy a nice cooling bath, after which they obligingly carry all the goodies and begin the two-hour trip up the valley, into the hills and into the jungle.

Those of us who are physically unable to make the trip on our own two feet are privileged to ride. At this point I hasten to add we do NOT have the dreadful howdahs that are so uncomfortable and painful for the elephants. This is the sort of thing that they have been rescued from. No, we ride the proper way, sitting high up on the elephant's neck with legs tucked behind his/her ears.

Having just had a bath your steed is somewhat damp and, if they have given themselves a sandy dust bath, somewhat gritty too. So what. No problem. You soon dry and what's a modicum of discomfort when you have an opportunity like this?

Once on the other side of the river you wander through grassland and then, just before you start climbing, there is a smelly, grey, squishy, muddy puddle. Lovely! Jungle Boy is in his element. Squealing with delight he races into the mud. He stamps in it. He rolls in it. He throws trunkfuls over himself and his Auntie, Mae Keow, and me! My slightly grubby T-shirt is now filthy. My arms are covered in mud, my hair is plastered and my face is well daubed too. If I'm not outstandingly beautiful tomorrow morning I'm going to want to know why!

The sun soon dries the mud and quite a bit of it brushes off. We continue to wend our way upward. The elephants browse en route and scratch against rocks and trees that are conveniently placed. I must say that sitting atop a swaying elephant, peering down a substantial drop is a little disconcerting. You have to have faith and believe that they have no overwhelming desire to go over the edge either, despite what appears to be a large portion of the elephant swaying over.

It is so peaceful and relaxing. There are no problems in this part of the world at this particular time. This is Shangri-La.

Eventually we reach our destination but two steps before I dismount Mae Keow decides she'll have a dust bath. I can see it coming. I can do nothing about it so I just sit tight, close my eyes and wait for it. What's a bit of dust: just add it to the dried mud? That's fine. I could even grow to like bits of twig etc in my bra!

Now we have arrived the elephants are relieved of their burdens and are free to wander where they will. Some go off immediately whilst others hang around for a while. They are now free to "do their own thing". We do ours — and our first thing is to gather firewood so that we can eat tonight and have a fire to sit around. Sometimes we go with one of the mahouts and gather leaves and bark from the trees to make medicine for the elephants.

Pom is a super cook. She can rustle up the most delicious Thai meals anywhere, anytime. Soon we are sitting around the fire, with additional light from candles, tucking in to a scrumptious meal.

Meanwhile the mahouts have been laying out the sleeping bags and putting up the mosquito nets. It's all very basic, no washing, no pajamas, just a toothbrush, literally, and a fleece because it is chilly night and early morning.

We all sit around after dinner chatting. The mahouts have limited English and we have even more limited Thai so Pom translates. It is all very light hearted with lots of laughter. We turn in fairly early because we know that we aren't going to get a lot of sleep.

Originally the hut had about four little "rooms", plus a kitchen area. On this visit I see that one of the rooms has become the kitchen area. What happened to the kitchen? I asked and was told that one of the elephants had pushed it down! I notice other changes too. None of the rooms (divisions) has a front wall anymore and only the one I had had a complete back wall! The toilet? Well, that's now wherever you want it to be. There was one with 3½-foot walls and no roof so privacy was not a factor — but, again, this was pushed over by an elephant.

We all sleep fitfully. We may have heard the elephants trumpeting in the night or we may have heard them walking by outside — and wondered if a bit more wall will disappear. Pom and the mahouts make breakfast. The nets are taken down and the sleeping bags rolled up. Everything is stacked up at the end of the hut in readiness to load onto the elephants — when we find them.

They could be obliging and be hanging around near the hut or they could have gone walkabout. We stand and listen to see if we can hear the gentle "chock, chock" of the bell each wears round their neck. These are hand-carved by their mahout and each has a different sound. If you are lucky you can find your elephant within minutes. If you are not you start walking. It is all a bit hit and miss but you do find them eventually. This time it took us two hours. The previous time I did the trip it took ten minutes! Elephants are very clever and have been known to place grass or mud strategically to stop the clappers from knocking!

We walk back with them to the hut. Load up, clean up, check everything is safe then start the journey down.

Jungle Boy is tired. He's obviously been up most of the night browsing, wandering and playing. His little eyes are so heavy they keep closing and he wants to lie down. Sorry Jungle Boy. Just a little bit further.

Eventually we're at the bottom. Oh goody, here's the mud wallow again! I suppose at my age a second layer of mud can only be beneficial! Jungle Boy suddenly gets his second wind and charges into the mud with as much enthusiasm as he did on the way up. Hooray! We're all covered again! Into the river we go to make the crossing and Mae Keow decides she is hot and a nice trunkful of water over her back will be delightfully cooling. Has she forgotten I'm there, or doesn't she care? Either way I get cooled too.

On the other side of the river the elephants are unloaded and go into the river for a bath. We all help bathe them. Me, I'm such a mess I figure my need is even greater than theirs so throw myself into the river too and scrub off as best I can.

The elephants amble back along the road to the Park, we load up the pick-up, scramble on board and follow. We arrive back just in time for lunch, which we are more than ready for.

Day visitors regard us with wonder. Who are these incredibly dirty people with big happy smiles? We delight in telling them what a wonderful time we've had then disappear to have the first of two or three showers that will, eventually, remove the mud, dust and goodness-know-what-else from us.

What a superb 24 hours. What an incredible experience. How well we will sleep tonight. Can't wait for an action replay!